Hi folks, today we provide you with some very special information! As you may have noticed, the layout of the popular Laing DDC-1T water pump was changed. The new revision is characterised by a new impeller and some changes in the PCB design. The DDC-1T (10w) and the DDC-1PlusT (18w) both possess a blue impeller, whose inlet dimensions have changed, too. For the older versions, it was easy to distinguish both water pumps by the color of the impeller. The DDC-1T pump was equipped with a black impeller, the DDC-1plusT with a red one.Further on, there were some differences in the layout of the "old" impellers, but now both versions of the pump share exactly the same impeller. We wanted to take a detailed look at the new DDC-1T and DDC-1PlusT designs: For this purpose, we ordered both water pumps in the new version and we were suprised with what we found out: With just a little effort and a soldering gun + solder, it is possible to change a DDC-1T water pump to a DDC-1plusT. As there will be no high amperage on the contacts we are going to modify, you can do this with some conductive lacquer, too. So we decided to share this information with you and made a short HowTo.


ATTENTION: Neiter we nor Laing Thermotech, Inc take responsibility for damages which are caused by this modification. You act at your own risk and you lose the warranty! Requirement for this mod is a DDC-1T water pump in the newest version with a blue impeller:

First you have to open the water pump. It is necessary to remove the 4 screws, marked red in the picture. Once you have finished this, you can remove the cap, the impeller and the stator with the circuit board from the case. Just push on the area marked green.

You should see the circuit board now, as shown in the following picture:

Take a closer look to the power supply lines: All you need to do is connecting the contacts marked red with solder, so that you got an electrical link. Attention: Make sure you only connect the two contacts that you can see on the picture. Do not connect any other contact with solder!

Your work should look like this:

The last thing to do is to assemble the water pump again - now you pimped your Laing DDC-1T to a Laing DDC-1PlusT! The circuit boards of both water pumps are equipped identically, so higher amperage after the mod is no problem. By the way, this modification is easy to reverse, just remove the solder bridge. You can also downgrade your DDC-1plusT to a DDC-1T water pump if you want.


Here you can see the rotations per minute before and after the mod. The values were read out by Everest HomeEdition, the RPM-signal of the pump was connected to the contact for the CPU-aircooler on the motherboard.

Before: Approx. 3900 RPM:

Afterwards: Approx. 4500 RPM:

Have fun modding your Laing!



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